Itemized Deductions: Simplified

Deductions are expenses that the government has decided you shouldn’t be taxed on.  A good example of a deductible expense is the money that comes out of your paycheck to pay your state government’s income taxes – you didn’t actually ever see that money, so why should you have to pay Federal income tax on it?  In other words, deductions are tax breaks.

“We love tax breaks!” you say.

But in order to qualify for these tax savings, you need to keep track of them, and include a list of all of the tax deductions that you should get on your tax return.

“Oh… that seems like a lot of work…”

tax reciepts

So, to make things easier, the government came up with an easier method.  They said…

“Listen, we know that most people get $6,100 or less in deductions. Let’s just give this amount to everyone and call it the ‘Standard Deduction’.”

Nice! That means that there is less paperwork. Also, on top of that, it means that you could only have $1,000 in deductions and still get credit for $6,100 of deductions.

But what if I have more than $6,100 in deductions, you ask? You are in luck, because, the IRS allows you to still send in your list of deductions and get credit for the full amount. This is called “itemizing your deductions”

So, the next question is…

What Expenses are Tax Deductable?

Tax Cat

Here is a list of some common deductions:

  • State and local income taxes
  • Mortgage Interest
  • Property taxes
  • Medical and Dental expenses
  • Theft or Disaster Damages
  • Unreimbursed Business Expenses
  • Charitable Contributions

Some of these, like medical and business expenses, are only deductible above a certain threshold – only if you have an unusually large amount.  For Example, starting in 2013, the threshold for medical expenses is 10% of Adjusted Gross Income (AGI), meaning that a couple earning $100,000 who has $8,000 in medical expenses cannot deduct them, or that if they had $11,000 of expenses, only $1,000 would be deductible.

There are a few other deductable expenses that are less common too. IRS.gov has the full list of itemized deductions.

So, Do I Need to Itemize My Deductions or Not?

In order to know whether you need to itemize, you need to add up all of the deductions that you have (after considering thresholds) and see if they total more than $6,100.  If you do have over $6,100 in deductions, you’re better off itemizing.  If not, you’re better off taking the Standard Deduction.

Note: Typically mortgage interest is, by far, the biggest deduction that people have. People who don’t have a mortgage are usually better off with the standard deduction, but not in all cases.  GoodApril can help you calculate which is best for you.

So, which did you get?

I will take the Standard Deduction

If you have found out that you take the standard deduction, congrats your life is a little simpler.

I will Itemize my deductions

Congrats, there may be even more savings opportunities available for you to unlock.

Deductions are one of several ways to reduce your tax bill – whether you’re taking a Standard Deduction or itemizing, GoodApril can help you identify tax savings.

How Millionaires Pay Less Taxes Than You (or Do They?)

Millionaire's Mansion
Warren Buffett, 11%
John Kerry, 13%
Mitt Romney, 14%

What do these people have in common? They make money by the boatload, own cars worth more than your 401k, and yet, seem to pay far less in taxes than the tax tables would imply they should be. Those percentages are their “effective tax rates,” the amount they pay in taxes as a percentage of their total annual income. Given that they were in the highest bracket (35% from 2003 – 2012) and are only paying that little, it certainly seems like the rich are able to manipulate the tax system in their favor. Are they really?

Tax Rates: The Myth Versus Reality

Let’s start by taking a look at Mitt Romney’s 2010 tax return.

In 2010 he made $0 from wages, which are (or aren’t, in this case) taxed at normal tax bracket rates. Of course, Mitt Romney is no plumber or barista, he’s a retired investor. Most of his earnings ($12.6MM) are from capital gains (taxed at only 15% in 2012), with some interest and business income thrown in there as well. All told, he had an effective tax rate of about 14%. Seems even lower than what you’re paying, doesn’t it?

It shouldn’t. In reality, the average American doesn’t pay all that much in taxes. We have a progressive tax system in which the tax bracket rate increases with income. Most of us fall into the 10%, 15%, or 25% brackets, but those aren’t the rates we pay on all of our income – just on the highest-taxed bit of it. Here’s a visual explanation of how your income is actually taxed:
Progressive Tax Bracket Explanation
The concept of “effective tax rates” comes into play to measure the tax rate that you actually end up paying.
Effective Tax Rate Equation
Let’s see an example that most folks can relate to. Let’s say you’re married with 2 kids and earn $100,000, which puts you in the 25% tax bracket. Without any extravagant tax planning, you could actually end up paying only $8,083 in federal taxes. That’s an effective tax rate of 8%, only a third of the “marginal” (or tax table) rate. Dollar for dollar, Mitt Romney pays almost twice as much federal tax as this taxpayer.

The reality is that the tax system, while flawed in many regards, is actually more progressive than it may seem. That doesn’t mean that the rich don’t take advantage of a complex tax code in ways regular taxpayers cannot.

Actual Effective Tax Rates

A couple years ago an Atlantic editor compiled IRS data to show what the actual effective tax rate is for taxpayers across income (AGI) bands:

effective tax rates by income group 2009

Interestingly, for all but the highest earners, the data isn’t nearly as dire as you might expect: the tax system proves more progressive than you might otherwise be led to believe.

Nevertheless, this data demonstrates that the super-rich are somehow getting a tax break that their “merely rich” brethren aren’t, and once again focuses attention on Buffet, Kerry, and Romney: those 11%, 13%, and 14% effective rates. Those are an awful lot lower than the averages from the Atlantic’s data.

So how do (multi-)millionaires pay less taxes?

A Rigged System

We’ve actually always had a progressive tax bracket system, but over the years we added more and more deductions and “loopholes” that, while often justified for one noble cause or another, often end up giving the most help to the rich. In the 1980’s, under President Reagan, there was an effort to “simplify” the tax code. These efforts resulted in two major tax reforms that cut the top tax rates from 70% to 28%, along with some other changes.

Reagan’s tax reform laws were supposed to lower tax rates while being revenue-neutral by getting rid of most deductions and loopholes.  Everyone was supposed to end up paying more or less the same amount as they did before the changes- that’s not how it worked out. Many deductions and loopholes are still there and the government collects billions of dollars less than it would have under the prior scheme.

That’s not necessarily all bad.  Most economists will tell you that lowering tax rates will help fuel a growing economy. Lower tax rates should spur investment, and the benefits of the resulting economic activity should “trickle down” to the masses. “A rising tide lifts all boats,” as John F. Kennedy once said.  President Reagan sold his tax policies to the American public on those same grounds: Lower tax rates, in particular for the highest earners, will benefit the entire American economy.

While some of the tax-saving tricks of the rich are out of reach of everyday Americans, it’s helpful to understand what they are.

Paying taxes like the rich

Note: while there are many tax breaks relevant to the middle class (the mortgage interest deduction, student loan interest deductions, and retirement account deductions, among others), we will not delve into them in detail in this post.

Investment Income

“Money that makes money is taxed at 15%, but money from hard work and long hours is taxed at 35%” – Joe Roberts, PwC

Income from wages is taxed under the normal tax bracket rates which now max out at 39.6%, but income from investments has its own lower rate schedule, topping out at 20%. The most basic play in the tax planning book is to shift your income from wages to investments, cutting the tax bill to the individual in half.

The IRS only gives preferential treatment to stocks that you hold for at least 1 year. If you sell the stock after a year, your gains will be taxed at a lower rate than your tax bracket rate (e.g. if you’re in the 25% tax bracket, you’ll only pay 15% on the gains from the stock sale). Similarly, dividends that you hold 60 days before and after the date a dividend is declared will be taxed at only 15%. There are some complex rules surrounding these of course, but you get the basic idea.

As you will recall from the Romney example, he earned $0 in wages (35% rate) and millions from investments (15% rate). That right there is a major key in uncovering how his effective rate is so low.

Business Income (and expenses)

Businesses, including personal businesses, are able to write off costs against the revenues they produce before paying taxes.  This differs pretty drastically from individuals, who for instance don’t get to reduce their wages on their 1040s by the cost of their rent.

By structuring personal assets and activities as businesses, the wealthy take advantage of this difference in the tax code. A vacation becomes a “business trip” to look after the rental property, reducing the income earned by renting that property by the cost of the trip.  A dinner out becomes “business entertainment” if work played at least some part in why you got together.  This isn’t to say these characterizations aren’t authentic – it’s just that they aren’t replicable for many Americans who earn a wage in a regular 9-to-5.

PTPs

Another method to pay fewer taxes or defer them until later years is to invest in publicly traded partnerships (PTPs). The accounting rules surrounding these can be complex, but the biggest upside of a PTP is that any distributions from these companies (basically their unique form of dividends) are seen as a “return of capital.”  That allows a taxpayer to avoid paying the Capital Gains tax when the distributions are received, and instead paying them when you actually sell the stock instead. Using this strategy, you can defer taxes for years.

However, it should be noted that one downside is that as a shareholder of a PTP, you will have to pay taxes on the partnership’s current year earnings. Thankfully, the distributions paid to you generally exceed the tax you will owe on income, so you can successfully defer the taxes on income. You will have to pay taxes on the distributions eventually, but remember that typically paying taxes later is better than paying taxes now for both time value reasons and because people typically enter lower tax brackets as they grow older and retire.

Trusts

Finally, the rich sometimes take advantage of complex systems of trusts to help them shelter their earnings from being taxed. The basic idea is that you set aside some money, give a “trustee” control over the money, and after a certain amount of time (or upon your death) someone will receive the money (the “beneficiary”). Things get complicated from there, however. There are more types of trusts than you might realize – like the Charitable Remainder Unitrusts with Net Income Make-up Provisions (“NIMCRUT”), for instance.

The most common type of trust is an irrevocable trust which allows your loved ones to escape estate taxes when you die. If you’ve got money set aside for your children that you’re not going to touch, why not protect it from taxes? You will need to pay a “gift tax” on the contribution of property to the trust, but if the property is expected to grow over time, it may be beneficial to create a trust today rather than pay estate taxes later.

It is typically expensive to set up a trust, however, so it takes a large sum of money to make most of them worthwhile to set up.

Help For Everyone Else

While it doesn’t necessarily get as exotic as trusts, PTPs, and the like, there are still plenty of ways everyday Americans can be more tax efficient.

If you’re curious about how you can save some money this year, don’t wait until tax season rolls around. Start using GoodApril’s tax savings tools to find ways you can save money and stay on top of the ever-changing tax code.

Other resources for those helping to understand how millionaires pay less taxes:

Mansion Photo Credit: DG Jones

The Tax Benefit of Paying Off School Debt: The Student Loan Interest Deduction

This post originally appeared in the ReadyForZero blog.  ReadyForZero helps consumers create plans to pay off their debt.

There are a lot of benefits to paying down your debt – psychological and financial alike – but one of the less known perks for paying down student loan debt is that it can help lower your taxes.

Textbook pages turningHow the Student Loan Interest Deduction Works

If your income is within the permitted range (see below), you can deduct up to $2,500 in student loan interest payments annually – it goes right onto line 33 of your form 1040. Unlike other tax breaks for education, your student loan may have been used not only for the basics (tuition, fees, books, etc), but also room and board (if you lived in university housing).

Like all tax rules there are a lot of caveats, but luckily, in this case they’re all pretty mundane:

  • The debt has to be in your name (the IRS says that “you [must be] legally obligated to pay interest”) – not in the name of your parents or someone else (they get to claim the deduction for themselves)
  • You (and your spouse, if married) cannot be claimed as a dependent on someone else’s return
  • You are not filing as “Married Filing Separately” (the IRS really doesn’t like that)
  • The loan had to be used solely to pay qualified higher education expenses, for a degree-awarding institution in which you were enrolled at least half-time

Planning to Maximize Your Student Loan Interest Deduction

Because the ability to deduct student loan interest payments is limited to people earning less than $75,000 per year (if single) or less than $155,000 (if married), higher-paid graduates have a narrow window within-which they can take advantage of the deduction: the year when they graduate.

Here’s what you should think about: will you have enough disposable income from that first job after graduating to be able to make some big interest payments? Perhaps all the way up to $2,500? If so, is your income going to be below the phaseout range (e.g. $60,000 for singles in 2012)? If yes, great. Make those payments!

If, however, your income is going to be between $60,000 and $75,000 (or close), then you can still benefit from the deduction, but you should consider some active tax planning. When you’re in the phaseout or close to the cutoff, reducing your taxable income not only lowers your tax bill for the year, but also enables you to take this deduction. So how do you do that? Contribute more to your 401K. If you don’t have one, make contributions to a Traditional IRA. Harvest some of the losses in your brokerage account – you know, that tech stock you lost money on but is still wallowing in your portfolio?

To help you understand this concept, consider John. He’s just finished his MBA and is going to earn about $70,000 between his summer internship, signing bonus, and first few months of work. Let’s say he’s able to pay off the full $2,500 of interest that he can deduct from his taxes. Because he’s earning $10,000 over the limit (at the 66% cut-off on the phaseout), he would only be able to deduct $850 of those payments. If, however, he contributed 10% to his 401K, and realized a $3,000 loss in his investment portfolio (sold his money-losing stock investments), he would be able to increase his deduction by $1,650.

Student Loan Interest Deduction Thresholds

Here are the income thresholds for the student loan interest deduction:

Filing Single and Head of Household:
$60,000 and below – full benefit
$60,000-$75,000 – partial benefit (take the amount of income over $60,000 as a percent of $15,000, and multiply it by $2,500 to determine your reduced benefit)

Married Filing Jointly:
$125,000 and below – full benefit
$125,000-$155,000 – partial benefit (take the amount of income over $125,000 as a percent of $30,000, and multiply it by $2,500 to determine your reduced benefit)

Married Filing Separately:
Ineligible

We hope this information will help you make the best decision when it comes to paying off your student loans and getting the maximum tax benefit for doing so. If you have any questions about student loan interest deductions, let us know in the comments below.

References: http://www.irs.gov/publications/p970/ch04.html

Photo Credit: fanz

How to Get an Extension to File Your Taxes Later

Filing a Tax Extension in 1-2-3

  1. Pay any taxes due now (yes, this will be an estimate)
  2. Request an extension with form 4868
  3. File your tax return within the next 6 months

Need a tax filing extension? Photo of firefighter in front of clockHow to File an Extension

Your Federal income tax return is due on April 15th, 2013.

If you need some additional time, filing Form 4868 will give you an additional 6 months to file – extending your tax filing deadline to October 15th, 2013.

Pay Now, File Later

Even if you file for an extension, however, your tax payments are still due by April 15. If you owe the IRS money and haven’t paid by April 15th, you will be subject to both penalties and interest.

“Wait…” you say, “how am I supposed to know how much to pay if I haven’t done my taxes yet?”  Good question!  You have to guess.  And guess conservatively – it’s better to overpay a little (you’ll be getting the money back as a tax refund) than the underpay.

You can get a free estimate of your taxes from TurboTax’s TaxCaster and H&R Blocks Tax Calculator.

Request a Tax Filing Extension

The IRS allows you to get a 6 month extension, no questions asked, by simply filling out the form 4868, the “Application for Automatic Extension of Time To File U.S. Individual Income Tax Return.”

While it is possible to use software providers like TurboTax or H&R Block to file an extension on your behalf, it’s really not worth it.  The form shouldn’t take you more than 45 seconds to fill out by hand once you’ve estimated your taxes.

After you’ve completed the form, simply mail it to the IRS along with your payment.  It only needs to be postmarked by April 15th – it can arrive a few days later.

Finally, don’t forget about your state taxes!  Most states also allow a consumer to get an automatic filing extension.  California, for instance, mirrors the Federal extension process: you can get an automatic extension to file your California State taxes, but payments are due by April 15th.

Photo Credit: Roby Ferrari via Compfight cc

How to Contribute to a Traditional IRA

Golden_Nest_EggTraditional IRA Contributions in 1-2-3

  1. If you had earned income during the course of the year and were not covered by an employer’s retirement plan (e.g. a 401K), you should consider opening and contributing to a traditional IRA.
  2. The 2012 annual limit IRA contributions is the lesser of 100% of your earned income or $5,000 ($6,000 if you are age 50 or older).  In 2013, those limits are $5,500 and $6,000, respectively.
  3. You can make a contribution for a given year up to the day on which you file your taxes for that year. So you can make 2012 contributions as late as April 16, 2013.

Understanding the Traditional IRA

Let’s start off talking about what an Individual Retirement Account (IRA) even is.  There are several types, but two are the most common: Roth and Traditional.  If you choose Traditional (also called “deductible”), you will be able to deduct from your income any money you contribute (up to a limit, $5,000 in 2012, $5,500 in 2013).  It’s not that it’s never taxed – it just isn’t taxed the year you earn it.  Instead, you will pay tax on withdrawals when you retire. If you choose Roth, you’ll pay tax on the money now, but withdrawals from the plan will be tax free when you retire – the return on your investments in the account will be tax free. You may have both a Roth and a traditional IRA, but the contribution limits apply to the sum of your contributions to both.

Traditional IRAs were designed for people who do not have access to an employer sponsored retirement plan (like a 401K) or are self-employed and don’t have enough income to justify setting up a pension plan for themselves. If you have access to a 401K or other plan, you’ll see that the income limits to qualify to deduct your IRA contributions from your income are quite low – making your 401K or Roth IRA the only option for many middle and high earners.

Money in your IRA account may be invested in almost anything legal. Investment options vary by the financial institution offering the account. Banks tend to limit you to savings accounts and CDs. Brokerage firms offer broader options, but of course, you can lose money as well as make money investing in stocks, bonds, and mutual funds.

There is a 10% tax penalty if you withdraw the money from your IRA before you are age 59½. The early withdrawal penalty is waved for certain hardships such as disability.  You must start withdrawing by the time you are 70½ and make a minimum deduction every year after that.

If you or your spouse are eligible for an employer plan, the deduction for making contributions to a traditional IRA is phased out as your Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI) increases.

Traditional IRA Contribution Limits

If you are covered by a plan and your Filing Status is… And Your MAGI Is… Then You Can Take…
single or
head of household
$58,000 or less a deduction up to the contribution limit.
$58,001 to $68,000 a partial deduction.
$68,001 or more no deduction.
married filing jointly or qualifying widow(er) $92,000 or less a deduction up to the contribution limit.
 $92,001 to $112,000  a partial deduction.
 $112,001 or more  no deduction.
married filing separately *  less than $10,000  a partial deduction.
 $10,000 or more  no deduction.
* If you file separately and did not live with your spouse at any time during the year, your IRA deduction is determined under the “Single” filing status.

 

If you are NOT covered by a plan and your Filing Status is… And Your MAGI Is… Then You Can Take…
single, head of household, qualifying widow(er), or  married filing jointly or separately with a spouse who is not covered by a plan at work  any amount a deduction up to the contribution limit.
married filing jointly with a spouse who is covered by a plan at work $173,000 or less a deduction up to the contribution limit.
$173,001 to $183,000 a partial deduction.
$183,001 or more no deduction.
married filing separately with a spouse who is covered by a plan at work  less than $10,000  a partial deduction.
 $10,000 or more  no deduction.

How to Contribute to a Traditional IRA

If you don’t have an IRA already, you will need to open one.  Pick a financial institution that you trust, that offers the savings or investing products you want. Most financial institutions offer Individual Retirement Accounts.  Generally, a good time of year to open a Traditional IRA is during tax season, as financial institutions will offer promotions to attract new account holders, but you can open one at any time of the year.

Once you have an account open, you will need to make a “contribution” – a deposit of money. Typically you have a lot of choices, but it’s usually easiest to make an electronic bank transfer (often called “ACH”).  If it’s sometime between January and Tax Day, you will have to designate which tax year you are making your contribution for – i.e. 2012 or 2013 – since you can contribute to either the past or the current year during that period.

From a tax perspective, that’s it!  That income you earned this year is now in an IRA, and assuming you meet the income requirements, you will be able to deduct it from your taxable income.  Practically speaking, however, the last step is to actually allocate your deposit into investments.  Generally, a safe bet is often to invest in a target retirement year fund, but investment strategies are a whole other topic for another day.

What Forms Do I Need to File My Taxes?

Seasons of TaxDid you know? There are actually 5 seasons in the year: summer, fall, winter, spring … and tax.

Every year around March accountants perk up, strange letters from financial institutions start showing up in the mail, and the air becomes crisp with the smell of newly printed tax refund checks. It’s tax return season, and if you’re like the majority of Americans, you’re seeing dollar signs.

Before you can get your hands on a refund check, however, you’ve got to tell the Tax Man how much he owes you, and that means filing a tax return. Luckily, your employer, bank, and school already do most of the number crunching for you! They will mail you various tax forms telling you how much you earned at your day job, how much interest or investment income you earned, and how much tuition you paid acquiring your degree. These forms will help you figure out how much your refund will be, but first you should understand what they all mean and how to use them.

Forms you file:

  1. Form 1040: This is your tax return. Everyone needs to file a 1040 unless they didn’t earn any money or are being claimed as someone else’s dependent. There are 3 flavors: 1040EZ, 1040A, and the classic 1040. You can fill it out with a pen and paper, using software like TurboTax, or a service like H&R Block. Once you click the “e-file” button in your tax prep software, your 1040 is magically delivered to the IRS’ database. After a few weeks they send you a refund check (unless you owe them money, uh oh!). Failure to file a timely 1040 may result in fines/penalties and the IRS certainly won’t mail you a refund check unless you tell them to by filing.

Forms you don’t file (“Informational forms”):
(Note: keep these informational forms in your records but don’t file with your tax return)

  1. W-2: This form is mailed to you by your employer and tells you how much you earned working for them. And, more importantly, it tells you how much your employer deducted from your paycheck and sent to the IRS on your behalf. If they deducted $10,000 but you find that you should have paid only $7,000, then it’s your lucky day: You’re getting $3,000 back!
  2. Forms 1099: This is a form sent to you by a third party (e.g. a bank) that provides information to help you fill out your tax return. Form 1099 is used to report various types of income. There are lots of variations of Form 1099, but one of the most common is Form 1099-INT. Yep, you guessed it, the INT stands for interest! This form tells you how much interest your bank account earned during the year. That interest is taxable income so it needs to be reported on your tax return, and the 1099-INT simply tells you how much you need to report. Here are some common 1099s:
    • 1099-MISC: used to report income earned as a contractor (e.g. through freelance or project-based work)
    • 1099-INT: used to report interest income1099-DIV: used to report dividend income
    • 1099-K: used to report income from third parties (e.g. selling goods on eBay or Amazon)
  3. Forms 1098: This form is also mailed to you by third parties (e.g. a school) to help you fill out your tax return. You should be really excited when you get a 1098 because it means that you can claim a deduction on your tax return. For example, if you’re a college student, your school will mail you a Form 1098-T that says how much tuition you can deduct. Here are some common 1098s:
    • 1098-C: used to report a charitable donation (e.g. donating your car to a charity is deductible, so the charity will send you a 1098-C)
    • 1098-E: used to report deductible student loan interest
    • 1098-T: used to report deductible tuition expenses

Once you have all of these informational forms in hand, you are ready to tackle the 1040. If you think you should have received an informational form, simply visit the institution’s website and look for their “Tax Center” page, or call them and ask them about where to find your tax forms. You don’t need one of these forms to report income or claim a deduction, but you should probably consult a tax veteran before straying too far outside of your comfort zone.

After you’ve filed, check out GoodApril’s Tax Checkup to get your next tax year started on the right foot.  We’ll generate a personalized tax savings to-do list, for instance, to help you save some green next April.

Helpful Resource:
IRS Publication: A Guide to Information Returns

Image Credit: LifeVesting.com

How to Make Charitable Donations

Donation_BoxCharitable donation tax deduction 1 -2 -3

  1. Contributions to charity reduce your taxable income and the amount of tax you pay, but you must itemize to take a charitable deduction.
  2. Be sure it is a real charity. It must be a school, a church, or registered with the IRS as a 501(c)(3) organization. Political donations are not deductible.
  3. Get a receipt. Checks are good enough for small amounts, but over $250 you need written acknowledgement from the charity.

How to Donate to Charity

It pays to do good. When you make a donation to a charitable organization, you may be able to deduct it from your income, reducing your total “taxable income” and therefore reducing your tax.

Charitable contributions are deductible up to 50% of your gross income. However, you must itemize deductions on Schedule A to do so. In 2013, unless you have more than $6,100 of deductions ($12,200 if you are married) including what you plan to donate, donating will not reduce your taxes, since you will take the standard deduction instead of itemizing.

You can donate most kinds of “things,” including money and investments.  You cannot take a tax deduction, however, for your donated time.

You may deduct the ‘fair market value’ of whatever you donate. Fair market value is obvious when you are contributing money – it’s the dollar amount you gave. If you give securities (such as shares of stock), the fair market value is the average price on the day you donated (the average of the High + Low for the day). Used property you donate (like clothes to Goodwill) must be valued at what it is worth today, not what you paid for the item, or its replacement value. This can be tricky to determine and can get you audited if you claim too much. There are special rules for donating a car - check them out if you plan to answer one of those billboard ads.

To deduct a cash contribution, you must keep a receipt. This could be a canceled check, payroll deduction record, even a note or email from the organization containing the name of the organization, the date of the contribution and amount of the contribution. For text message donations, a telephone bill will work if it shows the name of the receiving organization, the date, and amount given. If you contribute cash or property equaling $250 or more you must also get a written acknowledgment from the charity showing the amount and a description of any property contributed, and whether the organization provided any goods or services in exchange for the gift.

The maximum donation limit is determined by the type of charity and what you donate. Most charities, schools, hospitals, churches, and foundations are “50% charities” – you can give them up to 50% of your income. You can only deduct up to 30% of your income when you donate to veterans’ organizations, fraternal societies, nonprofit cemeteries, and certain private non-operating foundations. If you are close to either limit, check with the organization or look them up on the IRS website or GuideStar.

One of the best ways to make donations is to give appreciated investment assets, if you can. Say you have a stock that has gone up significantly in value – donating it lets you deduct the fair market value and saves you from paying tax on the gain. Unfortunately, this is such a good idea, the IRS limits it. You can only donate up to 30% of your income as the fair market value of appreciated securities, even when donating to a 50% charity.

A Few Catches:

You know those “pledge gifts” you sometimes get for making a donation – tickets to a performance or an emergency preparedness kit or whatever?  They actually reduce the tax deduction you can take.  You may only deduct the amount that exceeds the fair market value of the benefit you received. The charity can provide the value of the thing you are receiving.

You cannot deduct contributions made to specific individuals (even if they are religious missionaries), political organizations, political causes, PACs (super or otherwise) and political candidates. No matter the legitimacy of a panhandler’s need, for instance, the money you provided him isn’t deductible.

If all your noncash contributions for the year total more than $500, you must complete and attach IRS Form 8283, Noncash Charitable Contributions, to your return. Taxpayers donating an item or a group of similar items valued at more than $5,000 must also complete Section B of Form 8283, which generally requires an appraisal by a qualified appraiser. So if that painting you bought turns out to be worth a bundle, but your wife still hates it, you can donate it to the museum. Just be sure to get it appraised first.

References:

  • IRS Search for Charities or download Publication 78, Cumulative List of Organizations
  • Publication 526, Charitable Contributions (PDF 178K)
  • Publication 561, Determining the Value of Donated Property (PDF 101K)
  • Instructions for Form 8283, Noncash Charitable Contributions (PDF)
  • GuideStar – information on non-profit organizations.

Photo Credit: Mindful One via Compfight cc

How to Contribute to a 401K Plan (and Why)

Contributing to a 401(k)

Retire Scrabble Tiles

Contributing to your company’s 401(k) plan is an easy way to reduce your taxes and put away some savings for your Golden Years. If you don’t participate in your company’s 401(k) plan today, make it a Tax Season resolution to start saving and reducing your taxes for next year.

What you need to know:

  1. Enroll: You can only contribute to a 401(k) if your company offers a 401(k) plan. You need to enroll in order to participate. There are no income limitations – employees can contribute to a 401(k) regardless of their salary (up to the Annual Limit).
  2. Pick your Investments: During enrollment, you will be asked how you would like your contributions to be invested. Usually 401(k) plans offer a number of mutual funds, bond funds and the like. The employee can choose how they would like to allocate their contributions between the available investment options.  A safe bet is to pick a “target retirement year” fund, but you should make sureto do your research.
  3. Max your Matching: Some companies offer what’s known as a 401(k) Match. The company rewards the employee’s responsible retirement choice by contributing additional funds to the employee’s 401(k). Typically the company offers to match $X per $Y that the employee contributes, up to an annual maximum of $Z.  It’s almost always in your interest to at least contribute up to the max, if not more.
  4. Enjoy the Tax Savings: 401(k) contributors provide an immediate tax benefit by reducing your taxable income. Your gross pay is reduced by the amount of your contribution before your taxes are calculated. The tax savings applies to both Federal and State taxes (in most states). Contributing to a 401(k) does not reduce the amounts withheld for Social Security or Medicare, however.
  5. Withdrawals: You can start withdrawing funds in the yearyou turn 59 ½ years old. (You must begin taking withdrawals by the year you turn 70 ½.) If you withdraw funds before age 59 ½, you will be subject to an early withdrawal penalty (unless you meet one of several exceptions), so when you’re making your contributions, you should expect the funds to be tied up until retirement.

Some other handy things to know:

  • Annual Limit: Each taxpayer can contribute up to a maximum of $17,500 in 2013. Taxpayers who are at least 50 years old can contribute an additional $5,500 “catch-up” contribution (for a total of $23,000). If you’re married, each spouse can contribute up to his/her Annual Limit.
  • Deferral Rate: This is the term for the percentage of each paycheck that you would like to be deposited to your 401(k) account. This percentage is calculated on your gross salary (before taxes are withheld).
  • Roth 401(k): Some companies also offer an option to contribute to what’s known as a Roth 401(k), but you won’t save on your taxes this year if you do. In a Traditional 401(k), you get the tax savings in the year you make the contribution; you pay taxes when you withdraw the funds at retirement. A Roth 401(k) is the opposite – you contribute after-tax funds (you don’t get tax savings when you contribute), but you get to withdraw the funds tax-free when you retire. If your company offers both Traditional 401(k)’s and Roth 401(k)’s, you can contribute to both – but the sum of your contributions to the two accounts cannot exceed your Annual Limit.
  • Earnings: If your investments increase in value over the years (that’s the hope!), your earnings compound without being taxed until you withdraw the funds, in retirement.

Let’s Look at Some Examples

Alice – 10% contribution on $72K to save $2.5K:

Alice earns $72,000 per year working in California, or a gross pay of $3,000 twice a month. She is 25 years old, so she can contribute a maximum of $17,500 to her 401(k) in 2013. She enrolls right at the beginning of the year and selects a Deferral Rate of 10%, which results in her contributing $300 per paycheck, for a total of $7,200 for the year. This reduces her annual taxable income from $72,000 to $64,800. Since she files as Single, she is in the 25% Federal tax bracket; therefore, reducing her taxable income by $7,200 saves her $1,800 in Federal taxes. Since she is in the 9.3% tax bracket in California (and California recognizes the 401(k) tax deduction for State income taxes), she also saves $669.60 on her State income taxes.

Bob – Begins Contributing Mid-Year to Save $5.8K:

Bob earns $104,000 per year working in Alaska, or a gross pay of $2,000 per week. He is 55, so he can contribute up to $23,000 to his 401(k) this year. He enrolls right in the middle of the year and selects a Deferral Rate of 50%. So for the first 26 weeks of the year, he has no money deposited to his 401(k); in the second half of the year, $1,000 per week is deposited to his 401(k). After 23 weeks of these contributions (i.e. in early December), he hits his Annual Limit of $23,000, so his 401(k) administrator automatically ends his contributions for the year. So, his final 3 weeks of paychecks of the year jump back up to his original amount (based on a gross pay of $2,000). Bob files as Head of Household, so his marginal tax rate for his Federal taxes is 25%. By contributing $23,000 to his 401(k), he saved $5,750 on his Federal taxes. (Alaska does not collect State income taxes, so he has no State tax savings.)

Charlie – Missed Out on $1K in Savings by not Maxing his Match:

Charlie and Donna each make $100,000 per year and file as Married Filing Jointly. Charlie contributes 10% of his salary to a Traditional 401(k), and Donna cont

ributes 15% of her salary to a Roth 401(k) – both of them, for the entire year. Charlie’s company also offers a 401(k) Match of $1 for every $4 he contributes, up to a maximum annual benefit of $3,000. By the end of the year, Charlie has contributed $10,000 to his Traditional 401(k), and his company has added another $2,500, for a total of $12,500 of contributions. Donna’s Roth 401(k) contributions total $15,000. The couple’s total salary is $200,000, but Charlie’s 401(k) contributions reduces their taxable income to $190,000, which (in the 28% bracket) saves the couple $2,800 in Federal taxes. (The company’s contributions to Charlie’s 401(k) do not further reduce the couple’s tax liability. Also, Donna’s Roth 401(k) does not decrease the couple’s taxes this year, but she will not owe taxes on withdrawals from her Roth 401(k) when she retires.)

Note: Charlie did not take advantage of the full amount of 401(k) Match available to him from his company. If he had just contributed $2,000 more that year (12% of his annual salary, instead of 10%), he would have received the remaining $500 in 401(k) Match from his employer – and saved an additional $560 on his taxes. In other words, by contributing just $2,000 more to his own retirement account, he could have realized more than $1,000 in additional benefit!

In Conclusion

Contributing to a 401(k) is a great way to reduce your taxable income and save for retirement at the same time. Most Americans don’t save enough for retirement, but starting today – and letting the earnings compound for years – can make a big difference. Contribute to a Traditional 401(k) for tax savings this year; contribute to a Roth 401(k) for tax savings during retirement. And don’t be like Charlie – if your employer offers a 401(k) Match, collect all the free money you can!

The 7 Horsemen of the 2013 Tax-Pocalypse

2013 is going to be a crazy year for taxpayers.  We’ve pulled together a slideshow with SlideShare to help demonstrate just HOW crazy.

There are 7 major tax rules that are changing this year, primarily as a result of the Fiscal Cliff and the Affordable Care Act (“Obamacare”).  While some rules affect only a wealthier Americans, others affect nearly all taxpayers.

Check it out:


GoodApril is Launching! 4 Easy Ways You Can Support Us

Benny and I are thrilled to announce the GoodApril will be launching its first product to consumers this week.  We are lucky to have many supporters in this endeavor – both people we knew before we got started, and the many people we have met since.

GoodApril SupportersIf you would like to help us in these early stages of getting off the ground, here are a few things you can do:

Get your own Tax Checkup

Once you have filed your 2012 tax return, submit it to get your own free Tax Checkup.  We analyze it to determine how you’re affected by 2013′s tax rule changes (including the “Fiscal Cliff” bill) and what you can do to reduce your tax bill.

Tell 3 Specific Friends About Us

One thing we’ve found is that for every “blast” email we write to 10 people, we get 2 or 3 responses.  When we write individual notes, we get 6 or 7.  So please, write to 3 of your friends individually and simply tell them:

“Hey, I just discovered this cool service from GoodApril – you should check out their free “Tax Checkup.”  There are 7 big tax changes coming in 2013, and their Checkup can tell you how much more you’ll owe in taxes in 2013, and things you can do to reduce your tax bill.”

Share us with Bloggers or Journalists
You know a personal finance blogger or journalist and haven’t mentioned it to us before?  Seriously?!  We would LOVE your help.  Here’s a quick blurb you could send them (please CC us)

“I’m writing to introduce you to an interesting new tax planning startup for consumers, GoodApril.  I’m excited by their first product – a free online “2013 Tax Checkup” that launched recently.

They analyze an individual’s 2012 tax return to determine how much more they’ll owe in taxes in 2013 as a result of the new rules like the “Fiscal Cliff” bill. They also identify possible actions that person can take to reduce their tax bill.  I’m not aware of any similar online service.

You can get in touch with their Co-Founder, Mitch Fox at founders@goodapril.com or 415-755-8820 for more details.”

Follow us on Twitter, Google+, Facebook, and AngelList

You know as well as anyone else that Followers = Credibility, and we could use your help in building our fan base.  Here are easy links to “Follow” us from:

Thanks again for being such great supporters!